Since getting a large enough piece of leather for the whole belt would be expensive, my client and I decided to go with pleather. After making the whole thing, I've pretty much decided that the extra time required to finish all the edges doesn't make it cheaper and in the future I'd let my clients choose one or the other.
Since I was working with pleather, I needed to line it, and I decided to use some of the left over white broadcloth from the tunic. This turned out to be a good idea despite the color difference, as this pleather has a bit of a stretch to it and needed the stability of the broadcloth backing.
Actually the broadcloth alone wasn't even enough. I added interfacing to both pieces.
Stitched and turned!
Then I topstitched all of the edges...
...using my special non stick foot. (I've read that you can also put masking tape on the bottom of a regular presser foot for the same effect)
Looking mighty fine, don't you think?
Time to add some more details! I used packing tissue saved from my wedding plates to make the pattern for the belt appliques.
They were a little fussy to sew down, mostly because they wanted to stretch out, and I had to use a little glue first to get the curves to tuck under smoothly.
Sharp eyes will note buckles at the top of that last photo... click through this link to learn how to make those in Part 4 of the Assassin's Creed Cosplay!