Monday, January 12, 2015

Ruby/Red's Cloak from Once Upon a Time


Quite awhile ago a commentator on this blog left me a link to some red brocade they believed was quite close to Ruby's cloak on "Once Upon a Time." When I got a commission to replicate this cloak, my customer was willing to go with the $25 per yard price tag and when it arrived, lo and behold, I realized it was the exact same fabric used by the show's costumers! And wow, was it ever amazing! It's a damask velvet, polyester but very soft to the touch, and extremely thick and heavy. 


I am no longer taking commissions for this Cloak. HERE'S WHY. However there are MANY seamstresses who do custom cosplay commissions (Google is full of them!), and when soliciting a commission from them, you can send them the link to this post for reference and help in recreating a cloak for you. A cloak is one of the most basic cosplay pieces you can commission, and with the tips and tricks in this post, you should have no problem finding a costumer willing to take it on.

Also, there is not a pattern for this cloak. I drew the cloak pieces individually for each cloak I made (no way to easily share them over the computer without specific pattern-making software) and followed the steps in the post below to make them. I am not a trained pattern writer and my attempts to write up this pattern in the past have only proven frustrating for all involved, so there is no official "pattern" that I can easily share. I've done my best to put the steps below, so that any lined cloak pattern can easily be "hacked" to recreate this piece.

(You can find the fabric here for $27 per yard or search for "Neiman Marcus Red Jacquard" or "Red Velvet Damask." You can also sometimes find it here for $20 a yard.)


The fabric likes to fray (as anything velvety does) so I serge every single seam. Huzzah for sergers. In the picture above you can also see the interfacing we use for the hood brim and cloak border to give it the structure seen on the show's version.


Velvet is so interesting to work with, and velvet damask even more so!


It takes between 5 and 6 yards to make this cloak nice and full - and since it is a directional print, it requires some specific fussy laying out.


There is so much of this fabric, that it is way easier to use pattern weights (I use tuna cans) rather than pin it down.


I don't actually have my own replica of this cloak. However, I did make (finished with a friend's help!) a white version for my wedding:


(Why am I outside on a January night? Read more here if you want the story!)


Back to business. Both layers of the cloak have to have level hems before being sewn together. This can be easier to accomplish if I put the dressform up on one of my sewing tables.


A wise woman once gave me this tip: when gathering heavy fabric, don't use a basting stitch. Instead, zigzag over some dental floss, then pull the floss to gather as desired. This eliminates the high risk of thread breakage.


What was I gathering on this project? The hem of the cloak, so that it could be folded up and eased into the higher and thus shorter hem of the lining.


here you can see everything lined up, with the damask coming up on the inside to meet the lining.


Red has two cloaks on the show, and the damask cloak has two incarnations, one of them a repaired version. We decided to go with the undamaged version as it was simpler to work with. I didn't have to cut and rotate panels on the bottom, but I did still have to add borders along the front openings.

Her actual cloak also includes a ripple hem, which is a ton more work and which only took replicating once to realize I didn't want to do it again.


You can read more about the ruffle version here, but please don't ask me for a commission quote on making a second one!


As close inspection of pictures revealed, the show's version included slits in the side front seams for the wearer's hands to emerge. I did a couple different variations to figure out the best method for binding the slits.


This was okay, but difficult to keep smooth and very time consuming. So I decided to finish them in the same method that you would do a bound buttonhole. It worked a lot better. This required narrower seam allowances - too narrow for serging, so...





All that was left was to sew the hood and cape together, and cover that final seam with a lovely red ribbon!


Voila! Look at all that scarlet!






I am no longer taking commissions for this cloaks (or any cloaks). Here's why.


41 comments:

LA said...

That is GORGEOUS. If you ever come across the fabric they used for Belle's cloak in OUaT, I want to commission one.

Unknown said...

I've been searching for that cloak and found nothing but your site and I want one, what can I do to get one.

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Alexis, please send me an e-mail at elenatintil [at] gmail [dot] com and I'll giv eyou a quote.

Anonymous said...

Can you please tell me where this fabric was purchaced? I am making my own Ruby cape for a school project and would love to use the actual fabric :D

urooj said...

I would like to buy this for my Halloween costume. Where can i get the fabric?

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

The link to a source for this fabric is at the very beginning of this blog post.

Anonymous said...

Red's cloak actually has a different pattern around the hem. the bottom two feet of cloak are a different fabric. it's subtle but you can see it in the show.

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Yes, it is patched. My customer and I decided we'd go with the 'new' version of the cloak, as it was less work and we liked the finished product better.

Nathalie said...

Hey, could you maybe post a tutorial on the hood? What dimensions did you use for it? I'm trying to make a cloak and I think I messed up the hood part.
This is a gorgeous cloak!

Unknown said...

Did you line this cloak? I don't know if it's lined in the show and was wondering if you did.

Unknown said...

Please disregard my last inquiry. I looked more closely at the photos and saw that it was lined. Sorry.

Crystal Dawn said...

You and me both!

Izu said...

http://www.doodlecraft.blogspot.de/2013/12/once-upon-time-belles-traveling-cape.html

she might know... ^^

Anonymous said...

Waou... The cloak is really beautiful...
Great job ..

Anonymous said...

Hey, i really want to make this cloak but I was wondering if 5 yards will be enough for someone who is 5'5/5'6?

mellz__x3 said...

do you sell these?

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

I will create a replica for you if you commission one. check out this page to see how it all works: http://seamstressconfessions.blogspot.com/p/commission-costume.html

Anonymous said...

Bonjour,je voulais savoir si vous vendez vos creations parce que je voudrais bien acheter votre robe ou une autre de once upon je recherchais un identique et c'est la seul que j'ai trouvé. J'adore once upon a time et votre création aussi alors s'il vous plait aidez moi a en confectionner une. Merci beaucoup pour cette photo.

Anonymous said...

I love this cloak. If you were to sell that exact one how much would it cost?

Sarah said...

Hey, I am wondering how much one of these would cost if you make it for someone 5'7? I am really looking for this exact cloak for my ruby red cloak- halloween costume. I put off being ruby red for halloween last year as I could not find a cloak. I ended up being Rosie the Riveter instead *still fun* but I am wondering the cost of this? and how fast you could ship it to BC, Canada. MY email is sarahannabeth@gmail.com

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Sarah, you need to submit a cost query. Thanks. :)

Anonymous said...

Im sure you have many requests i just would like to know how i could put an order for this red cloak in for myself? I understand it will be pricy and take a whike so i just really want to get my order in as soon as possible. I dont know how i found this so im leaving my email and i hope to hear from you

Tristatammik@yahoo.com thank you for your time

Unknown said...

I saw your post saying that you no longer make them, Idk how long ago that was so I thought maybe I would push my luck and see if you could maybe :3 I want to get one for my love, wlawther18@gmail.com

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

William,

No, not only will I likely never make one again, but my fibromyalgia has kept me from doing hardly any sewing for 8 months now. I'm hoping to publish some sewing guides at some point to help people who want to make their own, but I will not be recreating them myself.

Unknown said...

Would you care to let me know where you got the pattern for the cloak (with hood) at? My grandmother is really good at sewing and I'm going to try and get her to make this for me. Also what kind of fabric did you line this with and will it be good and warm to wear around outside in the middle of winter? Thank you!!

Unknown said...

I am so sorry to hear this. You are so talented, and nobody deserves to go through that. I have been looking for someone to make me this exact cloak, for a wile now. I have the fabric, thanks to your link!=) However I am absolutely terrified that they will not be able to make it as well as you have done in the past. I want the un-repaired version. And I would need it by October 6th. Iwas hoping that you could possibly contact me and send me some more information about the hood and the rest of the cloak so that he/she could get it right. Pleas please pleas get back to me if you could. It would mean so much to me to have this cloak done as well as you have made it.

Unknown said...

my email is k.g.mondore@clasnet.sunyocc.edu

red said...

hello , thise is the most beautyfull cloak i have ever seen , i am not asking you to make one but my problem is i llive in the netherlands and this fabric site i think is only shipping to u.s , so my question is do they sell to the netherlands and if not do you know a site whith this fabric that ships worldwide ? thanks p.s can you share your pattern whith me becouse your cloak rock ! many greetings from the netherlands

My Natural Life said...

Hi Elizabeth, That is so beautiful cloak. Would you share the pattern with me, please? Or even tell how many pieces did you make it from? I'm trying to make wool cloak to my self for the cold winter and saw your amazing cloak that I fell love with. I would be so grateful to you if you could share your pattern.
Here is my email magia(at)rock.com

Unknown said...

Hi, I absolutely am in love with this cloak, ruby has always been my favorite on the show, and I've always have wanted to be her for Halloween however I am a boy so I can't really wear her dress and everything but I have been looking for the perfect cloak, and your ruffled cloak is by far the best I have ever seen, now I know you don't do commissions any more and I'm not asking for one I was just hoping that maybe you could share a pattern for the ruffled cloak if you have one so that me and my grandmother could attempt to recreate this beauty that you have created, if you could help I would much appreciate it, my email is rondaheart(at)gmail.com, thank you!

Unknown said...

Hello. I was wonder if you could email me the patter for the cloak? thebibliophile2003@gmail.com I love Once Upon A Time, and have been searching for sometime for Ruby's cloak.

Unknown said...

Hi there, I was hoping you might be willing to share your patten so I might have a reputable seamstress do the commission for me. I'm very sorry about your ailments preventing you from creating. Very devastating that someone with so much talent can't do what they're capable of. I have been dying for this cloak and when I originally found the post I was 18 and broke beyond belief. I will definitely hunt someone down, but if you know of anyone willing to take on the challenge on Long Island, NY, I would also appreciate the info.

AprillynnLatham @ gmail . Com

mkrucker80 said...

Hi! I was wondering if you’d be willing to share your pattern? My mother is a wonderful seamstress and I has agreed to make this for me for Christmas (I’m such a HUGE OUaT fan!!) I’d really appreciate it! I hope you’re able to find something to ease your fibromyalgia pain.
Mkrucker80@gmail.com

Unknown said...

Hello Elizabeth! Praying this finds you pain free. I as well have fibromyalgia. I am trying to become a quilter, but, the progress is slow. I would love to be able to copy your red cloak, the problem, I can’t find the right pattern. If you ever get enough energy, could you please pass along any suggestions.
I will be praying for you. Thanks for passing along your information!
Mrswave@msn.com

Hannah Lynne said...

So are you really not willing to make another one? I’ve been searching for this cloak for years. Pleeeease tell me you would make a replica if I commissioned one. I’m willing and able to do so. I’m fighting liver failure and wanted to do something special this Halloween since I never get out. Please oh please tell me you can do this.

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Hannah, I'm sorry but I honestly cannot. On top of the chronic pain, I'm currently in the first trimester of a pregnancy with debilitating morning sickness. However there are MANY seamstresses out there who do custom commissions, and you can send them the link to this post to get inspiration and direction.

Unknown said...

I’m so sorry, some people just don’t understand pain!
Would you be willing to share the pattern? I could make my own and maybe others could too.
Praying for you and your new bundle of joy!

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Ellen, the problem is that there isn't a pattern. I tried writing up the steps when I was outsourcing some of the work and no matter how clear I tried to make my diagrams and notes, people were still not getting the steps clearly. I'm worried that if I put those (very rough) notes online, I'll just get questions in perpetuity which I don't really have the time to answer. I've tried to include as many steps as I have photos for in this blog post. The cloak is really just a simple cloak pattern with a strip around the hood and along the front--different seamstresses could complete such a thing in several different ways.

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

Oh, and thank you for your kind words and understanding, Ellen! They are much appreciated. :)

Skuttle06 said...

Elizabeth can you confirm that the construction is basically the same as a circle skirt only using the neckline for the waist instead? It looks like a multi paneled circle.

Elizabeth Amy Hajek said...

It's very close to a half circle, but not quite. The shoulders are rounded out to provide a smooth drape. Refer to the 4th picture for example. :)