Chiffon is rarely used for structured garments (unless it's an overlay). It's an interesting choice for this blouse, which has a structured neckline... but more on that later. The big thing about chiffon is that it needs to be properly finished. In the past this meant french seams, although now that I have my serger I can just serge the edges.
It also means no more narrow hems on the regular machine. I can use the narrow hem stitch on the serger. This results in some excess fabric on the wrong side of the fabric which I then snip away with a sharp scissors. (Sharp with a rounded tip works best.)
The sleeves will be gathered, so I add a bias tape tube to the ends.
It's a fairly simple blouse to assemble, but there is one fairly elaborate detail - the embroidery on the sleeves and neckline.
We were unable to find chiffon with embroidery just on the edges, so I had to handsew on lace - applique style. It was quite labor intensive as I had to first sew down the design, then trim the edges. Needless to say, such embroidery will not appear on any cheaper versions of this costume I complete!
Above is one of the pictures I sent to my client for approval before sending it off...
And here is the finished product!!!
Remember the structured chiffon issue I mentioned? Well, the neckline of the blouse likes to move around. My client was able to get a good set with pins and such, but we noticed that Emilie de Ravin seemed to have the same issue with her 'official' costume... the neckline of the blouse is in a different position in every picture!
Final trick of the trade... I used hooks and eyes on the waistline of the bodice and skirt to hold them together and avoid gaping at the waist.
Like this costume? Want to commission a piece of your own? Check out my commissions page for further details!